Yilan Travel Guide: Hot Springs, Surfing, and Kavalan Whisky
When the relentless pace and grey skies of Taipei become too much, locals pack their overnight bags and head through the massive Xueshan Tunnel to Yilan (宜蘭).
Often affectionately called "Taipei's Backyard," Yilan County occupies the northeast corner of Taiwan. It is a stunning, fertile plain bordered by the ocean on one side and towering green mountains on the other three. Because of its unique geography, it gets a lot of rain, but that rain fuels pristine rivers, massive waterfalls, famous hot springs, and the pure water required by the local whisky distillery.
Whether you want to surf, soak in a hot spring, or drink award-winning whisky, Yilan is the perfect easy escape from the capital.
1. Jiaoxi: The Hot Spring Capital
Just 50 minutes from Taipei by bus, Jiaoxi (礁溪) is a town entirely dedicated to hot springs.
Unlike the sulfur-heavy hot springs of Beitou (which smell strongly of boiled eggs), Jiaoxi's thermal waters are rich in sodium bicarbonate. This clear, odorless "beauty water" leaves your skin feeling incredibly soft.
- Public Parks: Tangweigou Hot Spring Park sits in the center of town. You can take off your shoes and soak your feet in the warm, running streams for free. You'll also see dozens of "Doctor Fish" spas where tiny fish nibble the dead skin off your feet.
- Private Resorts: The town is packed with massive hot spring hotels. You don't have to stay overnight; most offer "private bathhouse" rentals for 90 minutes (around NT$1,000) or access to massive public pool complexes (bring a swimsuit and swim cap!).
- Food: Don't miss the local specialty: Scallion Pancakes (蔥油餅). Yilan produces the best green scallions in Taiwan, and the deep-fried, crispy pancakes sold on the streets of Jiaoxi are legendary.
2. Wai'ao Beach: Surfing the Black Sands
If you take the local train slightly further north along the coast, you arrive at Wai'ao (外澳).
This vast sweep of black volcanic sand is northern Taiwan's premier surfing destination. The beach looks directly out at the striking "Turtle Island" (Guishan Island) sitting on the horizon.
- Surfing for Beginners: The beachfront is lined with surf shops offering board rentals and beginner lessons in English. The waves here are incredibly consistent and feature a gentle sandy bottom, making it perfect for learning.
- The Vibe: After a surf session, grab a burger or a pizza at one of the laid-back beach cafes.
3. The Kavalan Whisky Distillery
Yilan is home to Taiwan's proudest international export: Kavalan Whisky.
In 2015, Kavalan shocked the world when their Vinho Barrique beat out traditional Scottish and Japanese heavyweights to be named the "World's Best Single Malt Whisky" at the World Whiskies Awards.
- The Distillery Tour: You can visit the massive, beautifully manicured distillery complex for free. You walk through the production lines, smell the fermenting mash, and view the thousands of oak casks aging in the subtropical heat (which accelerates the aging process dramatically compared to Scotland).
- The Tasting Room: At the end of the tour, you can pay for tasting flights of their most premium, award-winning expressions that are very difficult to find outside of Taiwan.
4. Night Markets and Luodong
While Yilan City is the administrative capital, the town of Luodong (羅東) is the cultural and culinary heart of the county.
- Luodong Night Market: This is widely considered one of the best and most intense night markets in all of Taiwan. Because Yilan is an agricultural powerhouse, the food here is highly localized.
- Must-Eat: You must queue up for Mutton Soup (當歸羊肉湯), try the Gaozha (糕渣 - a deep-fried block of jellied chicken broth that melts in your mouth and burns your tongue), and eat anything made with Yilan’s famous Sanxing scallions.
5. How to Get to Yilan
Because of the massive Xueshan Tunnel cutting directly through the mountains, getting to Yilan from Taipei is incredibly easy.
- By Bus: This is the most popular way. Go to the Taipei City Hall Bus Station and take the Kamalan Bus directly to Jiaoxi or Yilan City. It takes about 50 minutes to an hour.
- By Train: Take an express train (Puyuma or Taroko) from Taipei Main Station. It hugs the dramatic northeastern coastline and takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Note: Avoid the "Local" commuter trains as they stop at every tiny station and take over two hours.
- Pro-Tip: Avoid taking the bus back to Taipei on a Sunday afternoon. Half of Taipei retreats to Yilan for the weekend, and the traffic jam pushing into the tunnel on Sunday evenings is legendary. Take the train instead!