Taitung Travel Guide: The Untamed Beauty of Taiwan's Southeast Coast
When Taiwanese city dwellers in Taipei or Kaohsiung want to escape the stress of modern life, they go to Taitung (台東).
Located on the remote southeastern coast of the island, separated from the west by the massive Central Mountain Range, Taitung moves at a decidedly slower pace. It is defined by the vast Pacific Ocean on one side and towering green mountains on the other.
Taitung is the epicenter of Taiwan's surf culture, the home of stunning agricultural landscapes, and the heartland of several of Taiwan’s indigenous tribes. Here is how to experience the untamed beauty of Taitung.
1. The East Rift Valley: Cycling Through Chishang
While the coastline is beautiful, arguably Taitung's most famous attraction lies slightly inland in the East Rift Valley: the rice paddies of Chishang (池上).
This agricultural town is famous for producing the highest quality rice in Taiwan, and to protect the terroir, the local government banned electric poles from cluttering the fields. The result is a vast, uninterrupted ocean of golden-green rice swaying in the wind, set against dramatic mountain backdrops.
What to do:
- Cycle Mr. Brown Avenue: Rent a bicycle (electric bikes are highly recommended) and ride down "Mr. Brown Avenue," a perfectly straight road cutting through the fields, made famous by a 1990s coffee commercial.
- Takeshi Kaneshiro Tree: Take a photo with the iconic tree under which the famous actor sat in an EVA Air commercial.
- Eat the Chishang Bento: The local rice is legendary. Get a traditional train station "Bento Box" (Bian Dang) packed with braised pork, vegetables, and the perfect Chishang rice.
(Note: The best time to visit is May/June and October/November, right before the harvest when the rice is tall and vividly colored).
2. Dulan: the Surf and Art Capital
Drive 30 minutes north of Taitung City along the coast, and you hit Dulan (都蘭).
Dulan is a small indigenous Amis village that has evolved into Taiwan's bohemian surfing capital. The vibe here is incredibly laid-back, reminiscent of Bali decades ago.
- Surfing: The black sand beaches here offer excellent waves, particularly in the autumn and winter months during the northeast monsoons.
- Dulan Sugar Factory Art Village: A massive abandoned sugar factory that has been taken over by local artists, sculptors, and musicians. On Saturday nights, the courtyard hosts live music, craft beer stalls, and a vibrant community of locals and expats.
- Water Running Up (水往上流): A bizarre optical illusion nearby where a small irrigation ditch appears to flow uphill against gravity.
3. The Taiwan International Balloon Festival
If you visit Taitung in the summer (usually July and August), you cannot miss the Taiwan International Balloon Festival held at the Luye Highland (鹿野高台).
It is a truly spectacular sight. Dozens of massive, creatively shaped hot air balloons gather on a high, grassy plateau surrounded by mountains.
- Morning Sessions: The balloons launch at dawn (around 5:30 AM). You must wake up very early, but the morning air is stable, and watching the balloons rise over the valley while the sun comes up is breathtaking.
- Night Glow Events: In the evenings, tethered balloons light up their burners in sync with laser shows and live music.
4. Taitung City and Indigenous Culture
Taitung City itself is small and deeply connected to nature. It also has the highest proportion of indigenous residents of any county in Taiwan, heavily influencing the local culture and cuisine.
- Tiehua Music Village: Located in the city center, this former train station area is now an outdoor arts space. It’s famous for hundreds of painted hot-air-balloon lanterns hanging in the trees, making it magical at night. It hosts live indigenous music performances on weekends.
- Taitung Forest Park: Rent a bike and ride around this massive urban park bordered by the ocean, featuring the beautiful, dark waters of Pipia (Lute) Lake.
- Aboriginal Cuisine: Be sure to try traditional indigenous foods, such as Cinavu (pork and taro wrapped in leaves), wild boar meat grilled on slate, and millet wine.
5. Gateway to the Outer Islands
Taitung’s Fugang Fishery Harbor serves as the departure point for ferries to two of Taiwan’s most incredible offshore islands.
- Green Island (Ludao): A 50-minute ferry ride away. Famous for world-class scuba diving, clear waters, and the Zhaori Saltwater Hot Springs, where you can soak in hot volcanic water while looking out at the Pacific Ocean.
- Orchid Island (Lanyu): A 2-hour ferry ride away. This wildly rugged volcanic island is home to the indigenous Tao people and is arguably the most remote, pristine environment in all of Taiwan.
How to get to Taitung: The fastest way is to take the Puyuma or Taroko Express train (TRA) down the east coast from Taipei (about 3.5 to 4 hours). There is no High-Speed Rail on the east coast, but the regular trains offer incredibly scenic ocean views. You can also take a domestic flight from Taipei Songshan Airport directly to Taitung.