A Day in Jiufen: Spirited Away & Tea Houses

Jiufen (九份), a former gold mining mountain town in northeastern Taiwan, is arguably the most famous day-trip destination from Taipei. Known for its narrow alleyways, historic tea houses dotted with red lanterns, and sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean, it is widely (though unofficially) considered the inspiration for the animated film Spirited Away.

However, its immense popularity comes with a downside: the crowds can be overwhelming. If you go at the wrong time, you will find yourself shuffling shoulder-to-shoulder through a claustrophobic alleyway. Here is how to do Jiufen right.

1. How to Avoid the Crowds

The vast majority of tour buses arrive between 11:00 AM and 4:00 PM. If you visit during this window, especially on a weekend, the experience can be stressful.

Strategy A: The Early Bird

Arrive in Jiufen by 9:00 AM. The shops on Jishan Street (the main food street) will just be opening, the air will be crisp, and you can take photos of the iconic red lanterns without hundreds of people in the background. You can comfortably finish eating and exploring by noon, just as the massive tour groups start pouring in.

Strategy B: The Overnight Stay (Highly Recommended)

Book a guesthouse (Minsu) in Jiufen and stay the night. By 7:00 PM, most day-trippers have left to catch their buses back to Taipei. The town completely transforms. The red lanterns glow beautifully against the dark sky, the narrow alleys become quiet and mysterious, and you get to experience the true magic of Jiufen.

2. Essential Stops in Jiufen

Jishan Street (基山街) - The Food Artery

This is the main "Old Street". It is a narrow, covered path packed with food stalls.

• A-Zhu Peanut Ice Cream Roll (阿珠雪在燒): Two scoops of taro/pineapple ice cream, shaved peanut brittle, and cilantro wrapped in a thin crepe. It sounds weird, but it is incredible.
• Ah Lan Hakka Glutinous Rice Cake (阿蘭草仔粿): Famous for its chewy rice cakes stuffed with savory preserved radish or sweet red bean. There is always a line, but it moves fast.

Shuqi Road (豎崎路) - The Photogenic Stairs

This is the iconic steep, narrow staircase lined with red lanterns that everyone takes photos of. It cuts vertically through Jishan Street.

A-Mei Tea House (阿妹茶樓)

Located right on the Shuqi Road staircase, this grand, multi-story wooden building is the most famous tea house in Taiwan. It's the building that looks most like the bathhouse from Spirited Away.

• Tip: It is often fully booked during sunset. If you want a window seat to watch the sunset over the ocean while sipping Oolong tea, you must make a reservation days in advance.

Lai Ah Po Taro Balls (賴阿婆芋圓)

Jiufen is the birthplace of this famous Taiwanese dessert. You can watch them hand-rolling and cutting the colorful dough made from taro, sweet potato, and green tea. It's served either hot in a sweet soup or cold over shaved ice.

3. How to Get There from Taipei

Option 1: The Direct Bus (Most Convenient)

• Bus 965: Departs from Banqiao, Ximen, or Beimen MRT stations. It takes about 60-80 minutes and drops you right at the entrance of the Old Street. This is usually the best option for tourists staying in central Taipei.
• Bus 1062: Departs from Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT station. Also takes about 80 minutes.

Option 2: Train + Bus (More Scenic) Take a local train (TRA) from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang Station (瑞芳站). From Ruifang, exit the station, walk left to the bus stop, and take bus 788, 827, or 1062 up the mountain to Jiufen (about a 15-minute bus ride).

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Jiufen is magical, but it requires a bit of planning to avoid the crushing tourist herds. Go early, or stay late, and you will fall in love with this mountain town.