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Sun Moon Lake: Cycling the "Heart of Taiwan"
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Sun Moon Lake: Cycling the "Heart of Taiwan"

Explore the CNN-rated "World's Most Beautiful Cycling Route", Grandma's Tea Eggs, and indigenous culture.

Published on May 28, 2024

TL;DR / Quick Summary

Explore the CNN-rated "World's Most Beautiful Cycling Route", Grandma's Tea Eggs, and indigenous culture.

Sun Moon Lake (日月潭) in Nantou County is the largest body of water in Taiwan and is often described as the "Heart of Taiwan". Famous for its calm, emerald waters and surrounding mountains, the lake's name comes from its shape: the eastern side is round like the sun, while the western side is shaped like a crescent moon.

Whether you're looking for an active cycling adventure or a tranquil retreat at a boutique wellness hotel, here is everything you need to know to plan your trip.

1. How to Get There

Sun Moon Lake is located in central Taiwan. Unlike Taipei or Kaohsiung, there is no High-Speed Rail (HSR) or MRT station directly at the lake.

The Best Way: Taiwan Tourist Shuttle (台灣好行) If you are coming from Taipei, take the HSR to HSR Taichung Station (台中高鐵站). Head to Exit 5 on the 1st floor to catch the Sun Moon Lake Route (Route 6670) of the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle.

  • Travel Time: About 90 minutes from Taichung HSR to Shuishe Pier.
  • Frequency: Buses depart roughly every 30-60 minutes.
  • Payment: You can swipe your EasyCard/iPASS or buy a ticket at the Nantou Bus counter.

Pro Tip: Buy the Sun Moon Lake Pass at the Nantou bus counter. It includes round-trip bus tickets from Taichung, plus vouchers for boat tours, the ropeway, and bus shuttles around the lake, saving you up to 30% compared to buying everything separately.

2. Where to Stay: Shuishe vs. Ita Thao

The lake has two main hubs for accommodation and dining:

  • Shuishe Pier (水社碼頭): The main transport hub where the bus from Taichung drops you off. It has more high-end hotels, bike rental shops, and a Starbucks. Best for first-timers and those focusing on the cycling route.
  • Ita Thao Pier (伊達邵碼頭): Located across the lake, this is the indigenous Thao tribe's village. It has a fantastic street food market and feels more lively at night. Best if you want to be close to the Ropeway and street food.

Luxury Hotel Recommendation: The Lalu (涵碧樓). Originally a villa for Chiang Kai-shek, it offers Zen-inspired architecture and the best infinity pool views of the lake. Family Hotel Recommendation: Fleur de Chine (雲品溫泉酒店). Great for families and the only hotel on the lake with its own natural hot spring.

3. The CNN-Rated Cycling Route

The 30km loop around the lake is a breathtaking journey, but you don't have to ride the whole thing. For casual riders, the Xiangshan Bikeway (向山自行車道) is the highlight, rated by CNN as one of the most beautiful cycling routes in the world.

  • Distance: ~3 km (Shuishe Pier to Xiangshan Visitor Center).
  • Difficulty: Very Easy / Flat / Family Friendly.
  • Highlights: The "floating" bike path section that hovers directly above the water.

Photo Spot: Stop at the Todam (Wedding Plaza) for the iconic shot of the bike path curving over the blue water with layers of mountains in the background.

4. Boat Tours & Exploring the Lake

No trip is complete without hopping on a boat shuttle to cross the lake. The standard route goes in a triangle: Shuishe -> Xuanzang Temple -> Ita Thao.

Xuanguang Temple (玄光寺) & Grandma's Tea Eggs

Disembark here for a short walk up to the temple for a great viewpoint. At the pier, you must buy the famous "Ah-Po" (Grandma's) Tea Eggs. They are simmered with Assam black tea and shiitake mushrooms for hours, giving them an incredible flavor.

The Sun Moon Lake Ropeway (日月潭纜車)

From Ita Thao, you can walk to the Ropeway station. Take the cable car up to the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village (九族文化村). Even if you don't enter the theme park, the aerial view of the lake from the cable car is spectacular—especially if you wait for one of the "Crystal Cabins" with a glass floor!

Wenwu Temple (文武廟)

A massive, impressive temple complex on the northern shore dedicated to Confucius and the God of War. Walk up the "Year of Steps" (366 steps representing every day of the year) and enjoy sweeping views of the lake from the top plaza.


Escape the city chaos and find your zen at Sun Moon Lake. Just remember to book your HSR tickets and hotels well in advance if you are traveling during a weekend!

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