Dragon Boat Festival in Taiwan: Races, Zongzi, and the Great Debate

The 5th day of the 5th lunar month (usually in June) marks the Dragon Boat Festival (Duanwu Festival). In Taiwan, this holiday signifies the official arrival of the sweltering summer heat, and it is vigorously celebrated with water sports, unique folklore, and a tremendous amount of sticky rice.

Here is what you need to know about experiencing this ancient festival in modern Taiwan.

1. The Dragon Boat Races

The most visually stunning part of the festival is the dragon boat racing. Teams of rowers paddle fiercely to the beat of a heavy drum, racing down rivers in long, narrow boats decorated with intricate dragon heads.

At the bow of each boat stands a "flag catcher." As the boat crosses the finish line, the catcher must lean precipitously over the water to snatch a flag mounted on a buoy.

Where to watch:

• Taipei: Dajia Riverside Park (Keelung River) hosts the largest international races.
• Lugang: The historical town in Changhua holds a unique evening race, where the river is beautifully illuminated with LED lights, saving rowers from the blazing daytime sun.

2. The Great "Zongzi" War: North vs. South

You cannot experience the Dragon Boat Festival without eating Zongzi (粽子), pyramid-shaped sticky rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves. But be careful: Taiwan is passionately divided over which region makes the best Zongzi.

• Northern Zongzi (北部粽): The sticky rice is stir-fried with soy sauce, pork, dried shrimp, and peanuts before it is wrapped in the bamboo leaf and steamed. Texture: Chewy, distinct grains, deeply flavorful. (Critics call it "3D stir-fried rice").
• Southern Zongzi (南部粽): Raw sticky rice and fillings (often including pork belly, salted egg yolk, and chestnuts) are wrapped in the leaf, and then the whole bundle is completely submerged in boiling water and boiled. Texture: Soft, gooey, and sticky. It is usually served with peanut powder and a sweet-savory sauce. (Critics call it "wet mush").

Try both and pick a side! There are also Hakka-style Zongzi and sweet dessert Zongzi filled with red bean paste.

3. Quirky Traditions to Try at Noon

The festival occurs on what is considered the most "Yang" (masculine/fiery) day of the calendar. Therefore, several unique customs must be performed exactly at noon (12:00 PM):

• Standing Eggs: It is believed that exactly at noon, the earth's gravitational pull is perfectly balanced, allowing you to stand a raw egg perfectly upright on its end. If you succeed, you will have a year of good luck. Look out for mass egg-standing events on the streets!
• Noon Water (Wushi Shui): Water drawn from a well or tap exactly at noon is believed to have healing, purifying properties that can ward off evil and sickness for the entire year.

Get ready to sweat, cheer for your favorite boat, and eat entirely too many rice dumplings!